Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

New homeowners glossary

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009

Here are some common terms relevant to home ownership. For a complete list, visit www.nachi.org and click on Glossary.

A/C: An abbreviation for Air Conditioner, Air Conditioning, or Alternating Current.

Access Panel: An opening in the wall or ceiling near the fixture that allows access for servicing the plumbing/electrical system.

Approach: The area between the sidewalk and the street that leads to a driveway or the transition from the street as you approach a driveway.

Awning Window: A window with hinges at the top allowing it to open out and up.

Backsplash: A raised integral portion of a wall mount sink or lavatory located at the rear to protect the wall.

Baseboard: Usually wood or vinyl installed around the perimeter of a room to cover the space where the wall and floor meet. A board placed against the wall around a room next to the floor to properly finish between the floor and the plaster.

Bearing Wall: A wall that supports any vertical load in addition to its own weight.

Breeze Way: A roofed, open-sided passageway connecting two structures, such as a house and a garage.

Casement Window: A sidehinged window that opens on hinges secured to the side of the window frame.

Casing: Molding of various widths and thicknesses used to trim door and window openings at the jambs.

Ceiling Joist: One of a series of parallel framing members used to support ceiling loads and supported in turn by larger beams, girders or bearing walls. Also called roof joists.

Chair Rail: A molding that runs horizontally along the wall at about 3 feet from the ground. In storefront, window wall, or curtain wall systems, a chair rail is an aluminum extrusion applied horizontally to the inside of the system 3 feet from the floor to create a barrier in floor-to-ceiling glazing applications.

Circuit: A network of wiring that typically commences and returns at a panel box, and feeds electricity to outlets.

Composite Board: An insulation board which has two different insulation types laminated together in 2 or 3 layers.

Compression Valve: A type of valve that works by raising or lowering a stem. Water passes through the valve by turning the faucet handle, which causes the stem to drop or rise.

Condensing Unit: The outdoor component of a cooling system. It includes a compressor and condensing coil designed to give off heat.

Crawl Space: A shallow open area between the floor of a building and the ground, normally enclosed by the foundation wall.

Crown Molding: A molding used on cornice or wherever an interior angle is to be covered.

Culvert: Round, corrugated drain pipe (normally 15″ or 18″ in diameter) that is installed beneath a driveway parallel to and near the street.

Deck: An elevated platform. “Deck” is also commonly used to refer to the above-ground floors in multi-level parking garage.

Dormer: A converted attic with windows projecting through a sloping roof.

Double Hung Window: A window with sashes that slide vertically and allow opening from the top and bottom.

Drywall: A gypsum board material used for walls or ceilings.

Easement: A formal contract which allows a party to use another party’s property for a specific purpose, e.g. a sewer easement might allow one party to run a sewer line through a neighbor’s property.

Eave: The part of the roof which extends beyond the side wall.

Egress: A means of exiting the home. An egress window is required in every bedroom and basement. Normally a 4×4 window is the minimum size required.

Energy Efficiency Ratio: An air conditioning efficiency rating system which indicates the number of BTU’s delivered per watt of power consumed.

Expansive Soils: Earth that swells and contracts depending on the amount of water that is present.

Facade: The front of a building. Frequently, in architectural terms an artificial or decorative effort.

Fenestration: Any glass panel, window, door, curtain wall or skylight unit on the exterior of a building.

Field Measure: To take measurements (cabinets, countertops, stairs, shower doors, etc.) in the home itself instead of using the blueprints.

Fitting: A general term that usually refers to faucets, shower valves, tub fillers, or various piping parts such as tees or elbows.

Fixture: In plumbing, the devices that provide a supply of water and/or its disposal, e.g. sinks, tubs, toilets.

Floor Plan: The basic layout of building or addition, which includes placement of walls, windows and doors as well as dimensions.

Footing: The underground support for a foundation or support post.

Foundation: The supporting portion of a structure below the first floor construction, or below grade, including the footings.

How avoind being scammed by a home improvement contractor

Monday, April 20th, 2009

Most homeowners don’t realize that their rain spouting and gutters may be a target for thieves.  Why?  Well, many types of high end rain gutters and spouting contain cooper.  The recent skyrocketing of prices for copper has made for some very creative “recycling” efforts.

Residential homes, small businesses, and even government buildings have already been targets with substantial financial losses that the building owners must endure.  Not only the cost of replacing the actual rain gutters and down spouting but also fixing any other damage that was caused, because let’s face it the thieves are in a hurry and do not worry about ripping and tearing parts of the roof or siding.

Law enforcement is well aware of the recent crime spree involving all types of copper theft and they are trying to combat it by cracking down on metal recycling centers.  This deters some but others just work around it by melting down the metal themselves before turning it in for cash.

If your home is at risk you should consider being proactive and changing out your current rain spouting before thieves rip it down and do even more damage than just stealing the materials.

The best way to avoid being scammed by a contractor is to never accept an offer from one walking door to door offering special prices on any type of work you need done.  This is especially true for roofing work because the contractor is never able to just do the job right away.  An electrician would have his tools in his work vehicle and because most everything is standardized he could fix a socket right there on the spot.  A roofing repair or replacement contractor will not have a truckload of shingles, felt or tar paper, nails, drip edging, and other roofing materials with him.  He will need to measure and then order the materials.  Of course you would be expected to cut him a check in advance.  If you give him that check you may never see him again.  His company may not even exist so it would be hard to track him down to get your money back.

Never ever hire a roofing contractor this way.  Do a lot of research and get lots of referrals before deciding on which roofing company to employ.  The best resource you have for find the best roofer in your area is word of mouth referrals.